FINGER FLEXOR LOAD CALCULATOR
CALCULATOR
Enter Bodyeight (Lbs/Kg)
| Grade | Single Hand MVC Force | % BW |
|---|
Training Insight: Tools like the Grippūl isolate DIP joint flexion and eliminate wrist/MCP compensation—allowing you to train actual finger flexor capacity. If you’re lifting heavy without results, you’re likely leaking force.
The Grippūl constrains load to the distal phalanx, targeting the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) without allowing force to bypass into stabilizing joints. This pure mechanical loading enhances neuromuscular control and tendon-specific adaptation—improving force output where it matters most.
Traditional hangboarding often recruits shoulder or wrist musculature, masking finger deficits. With the Grippūl, you isolate true finger strength and eliminate hidden compensations. Greater load precision equals safer training and measurable progression over time.
The Grippūl constrains load to the distal phalanx, targeting the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) without allowing force to bypass into stabilizing joints. This pure mechanical loading enhances neuromuscular control and tendon-specific adaptation—improving force output where it matters most.
Traditional hangboarding often recruits shoulder or wrist musculature, masking finger deficits. With the Grippūl, you isolate true finger strength and eliminate hidden compensations. Greater load precision equals safer training and measurable progression over time.
Precision Force Mapping for DIP-PIP-MCP Integration
HOW TO USE This number represents your approximate mechanical load on the flexor chain, especially during crimp or half-crimp positions. We calculate based on simulated bodyweight distribution across the index through pinky, following validated studies on finger force (AID: 36306014). Optimizing Muscular Strength-to-Weight Ratios in Rock Climbing. Estimations are maximum volatile contraction (MVC) in peak forces for each grade on one hand.Grades are represented in Hueco, Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), and French/Lead. Grades are adjusted for each rating and scale accordingly.
FINDING YOUR MAX
Want to isolate flexor activation and remove compensation from MCP joint or wrist rotation? Use the Grippūl in your test protocol. Using a 20mm edge or quad crimp on the 15° edge, there are two ways to find your max, by hanging or lifting. Using the Grippūl 2, you can increment your way up to max 5 Lbs at a time using a loading pin at 5 sec holds, and when you can't lift anymore, take that as your ! rep max. Using the Grippuūl XL, you can find your max hang by subtracting weight on the pulley system.
Model/Athlete: Anika Westmark
HEALTH DISCLAIMER
The material displayed on the Website is provided without any guarantees, conditions or warranties as to its accuracy. You should consult your physician or other health care professional before starting this or any other fitness program to determine if it is right for your needs. If you have any concerns or questions about your health, you should always consult with a physician or other health-care professional.
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