CALCULATOR
CLIMBING FINGER STRENGTH-TO-WEIGHT CALCULATOR
HOW TO USE Our calculator helps to estimate your strength-to-weight ratio and one-arm hang, based on a liner regression of our data. Methods for used can be seen in our research , Optimizing Muscular Strength-to-Weight Ratios in Rock Climbing. Estimations are maximum volatile contraction (MVC) in peak forces for each grade on one hand.Grades are represented in Hueco, Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), and French/Lead. Grades are adjusted for each rating and scale accordingly.
FINDING YOUR MAX
Using a 20mm edge or quad crimp on the 15° edge, there are two ways to find your max, by hanging or lifting. Using the Grippūl 2, you can increment your way up to max 5 Lbs at a time using a loading pin at 5 sec holds, and when you can't lift anymore, take that as your ! rep max. Using the Grippuūl XL, you can find your max hang by subtracting weight on the pulley system.
INCREASING FINGER STRENGTH With testing done on healthy fingers 1-2 times a month. You can use our workout calculator below to increase finger strength. Remember rest, you should have no soreness, no pain, no tweaks when testing, climbing or during training.
HEALTH DISCLAIMER
The material displayed on the Website is provided without any guarantees, conditions or warranties as to its accuracy. You should consult your physician or other health care professional before starting this or any other fitness program to determine if it is right for your needs. If you have any concerns or questions about your health, you should always consult with a physician or other health-care professional.
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