WORKOUT
WORKOUT LOAD AND FREQUENCY
Research from the University of London has shown that training at 70-80% of 1RM elicits an significant increase in tendon force, torque transfer and absolute strength (link here). Remember to not use thumb-locking when half crimping. Never train at 100%. 1-2 times a week.
REST BETWEEN REPS/SETS
Moderate & Easy
Reps rest: 1-2 seconds
Sets rest: 1-2 minute
For Intense Reps rest: 5-10 seconds Sets rest: 2-5 minutes PERIODIZATION Loading sessions are planned in high-load sessions, and low-load sessions, also reffered to as de-loading sessions. For example, training in a 4 week block is a safe way to prevent injury. 1 week training at 60% of load, 2nd week at 70% load, 3rd week 80% load, and then back down to 60% load. After 4 weeks you can retest your max, and then re-adjust your percentages to your new 1 rep max onr-arm hang. Every climber is different and everyone advances at different rates, we've seen climbers advance at 2-5 Lbs a month, and have seen some advance at 8-10lbs a month. Don't rush, focus on your rest, nutrition, recovery.
WARM-UP
Warm-up should last for 30 minutes. If you don't have time to calculate your max hang, you can base it off of what your climbing in correlation to your bodyweight using our calculator (here). Warm up at 50% of the MVC listed (.5 x MVC), and lift 4 sets of 10 reps. Mixing in push-ups, or pull-ups at 3 sets of 7 can also be helpful. If climbing, you can warm-up on easy climbing.
HEALTH DISCLAIMER
The material displayed on the Website is provided without any guarantees, conditions or warranties as to its accuracy. You should consult your physician or other health care professional before starting this or any other fitness program to determine if it is right for your needs. If you have any concerns or questions about your health, you should always consult with a physician or other health-care professional.
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