Strength-to-Weight Ratio Project

If you are participating in the strength to ratio project, download the form here

We want to thank you for your feedback on our recent post on strength-to-weight and correlation to grade climbed. Coming from instagram? You're in the right place! We have a new project we would like your help on! Using the same methodology of finger strength with the Grippul, the new research project we're working on is collecting the overall strength to weight ratios of climbers to see how a climbers strength balances throughout the body and it's correlation to max grades climbed.

Numbers will be kept anonymous.

Instructions

  1. Required Inputs: Max sport grade, max boulder grade, body weight in pounds. Lats and left/right measurement for the following; Subscap, Tricep, Deltoid, Hands, Forearm, Extensors, Pectorals.
  2. Click the muscle field (box) on the form to see the exercise to perform.
  3. Fill out the form as best you can, getting upper body numbers works well with a cable pull machine. 
  4. For your fingers, write in your max dead-hang measurement on a 1 pad crimp (18-20mm). Controlled minimum of 5 seconds. (total of how much weight you subtract from body weight, or how much you add to body weight) Note for safety: Please do not peform the finger measurment if you are coming off of an injury. Peform with healthy hands. If you feel safer adding more weight with two arms, rather then measuring one arm at a time, subtract your total weight+added weight divided by 2, for a single hand measurement. Grippūl hanging can be used.
  5. Take each measurement as 5 rep max.
  6. Minimum needed fields: Lats and take left/right measurement for the following; Subscap, Tricep, Deltoid, Hands, Forearm, Extensors, Pectorals.

The formula

We use to calculate strength to weight is: your power (lbs) ÷ weight (lbs) = Strength to Weight (STW Percentage)

Sending in Results

For sending back you can just take a picture and email to beastfingerstraining@gmail.com, and we will share the results coming next yer in Spring.

Click here To download the form

 

Aman Anderson